The Maligne Range Tekarra Update (48%)

This is a very unusual post.

Typically, I sample each beer or spirit I review several times before posting here, but back in December of 2024 I made the decision to review a new-to-me whisky about which I knew little on the basis of a single miniature. I did not do so lightly. The tipping point was that the sample I had, kindly sent to me by fellow drinks writer Don Tse, was impressive enough that I thought it warranted mention.

This memory, and the post, came back to me when I recently paid a visit to Calgary, visiting breweries like The Establishment and Cabin and distilleries including Bridgeland, Burwood, and True Wild. And sat down with Brett Ireland, CEO of Bearhill Dining, Distilling, and Brewing, who led me through a tasting of all three Maligne Range whiskies.

Brett also followed up with samples of all three whiskies shipped to my office, so I was able to spend a bit more time with Tekarra. What follows is my updated opinion of the spirit.

Made from a porter recipe sans hops, with demerara sugar “carried through fermentation, distillation, and maturation,” this 2025 bottling is, as per my earlier review, a lighter gold in colour than you might expect, given the use of those dark malts, and also still rather captivating in its aroma. (The original review was based upon the 2023 bottling shown here.) The dark fruits I mentioned in my first review have evolved into a mix of red and dark purple plum, even a bit of prune, with a strong note of Bananas Foster, rich sugar, almost molasses notes, candied pear, and sweet licorice candy.

The palate is less sweet that it was, or at least as I recall it, but the sweetness is still presented with depth rather than candied superficiality. Cooked honey and cane sugar still lead off, followed by Tarte Tatin, stewed cherry, soft notes of medium roast coffee, a touch of cinnamon toast, some toasted oak and cooked vanilla, and towards the end a forest-like earthiness. The finish dries out considerably and demonstrates a gentle spiciness, leaving lingering notes of star anise, cinnamon stick, and burnt grain.

I originally noted that this was a whisky “that has not quite found its footing,” and I stand by that earlier assessment. That footing has now come much closer to being found, though, and I’m excited by what it is still to become.

89 ($130)