Okanagan Spirits Rye Rhum Agricole Finish (42%)

It is no secret that I am a big fan of Martinique rhum agricole. So when I found out that Okanagan Spirits had secured a bunch of barrels from Rhum J.M. in the country's north and was using them for finishing some of their whiskies, I was intrigued.

This whisky is very Okanagan in its composition, with 51% of the grain bill being locally grown rye and the remainder being malted barley, also local to the Okanagan Valley. The spirit is then aged for 8 years before being finished in the rhum agricole barrels.

Having sampled this now on several occasions, both alone and with others, I can attest that it is not immediately the easiest spirit to love. Even returning to the aroma after already having experienced it numerous times, the nose is slightly off-putting, with a curious mix of aged rhum, wet oak, and rye spice, not to mention the fruitiness that comes from the barley component. However – and this is a most important point – the more one noses and tastes the whisky, the more attractive it becomes, and I can say that this is true for everyone with whom I have yet shared this rye.

The difficulty with the aroma is how unusual it is, sort of like the way a Coors Light drinker might approach a Rauchbier or a vodka drinker an assertive London dry gin. As the noser adapts to the whisky, however, those disparate parts meld into a sweet, fruity, attractive whole, with orange and grassy sugar cane blending with light peppery spice, coconut shavings, and even a hint of blueberries.

On the palate, the same wonderous alchemy occurs, with sweet, grassy caramel opening up to a rounded mix of tropical fruit and peppery brown spice, papaya meeting nutmeg and coconut harmonizing with pepper, all in the warm, embrace of caramel, toffee, and a touch of sweet sugar cane.

I don’t know of any other whisky maker who has finished spirits in rhum agricole barrels, which is why this Rye is such a unique and uniquely challenging spirit. Given a bit of time to get to know it, though, and it becomes an impressive and undoubtedly prized addition to any whisky drinker’s cabinet.

94 ($75 from the distillery store)