Boatyard Double Gin (46%)

Built on a disused boatyard on the south side of Lough Erne in northwest Ireland, the Boatyard Distillery was, its website states, built for one purpose and one purpose only: To create a gin that would be perfect for Martinis. Additionally, the company has a commendable devotion to sustainability, with everything from bottles made of recycled glass to 2.8 litre refill pouches resulting in their having been awarded certified B Corp status.

In terms of production, the unusual part of the way Boatyard is made is the double hit of juniper it receives, first in the 18 hour maceration and then again in the vapor chamber as the spirit leaves the still. All of which may have the juniper-phobic among you feeling a bit nervous, although as it turns out, needlessly so.

There is no doubting the juniper-forward nature of this crystal clear gin, but it is juniper in a much different fashion than even many gin drinkers will be accustomed to. Rather than piney or peppery or even particularly spicy, this juniper is round and floral, as I imagine cotton candy would smell were it juniper scented. Behind the berry is sweet citrus, seemingly a mix of orange and lemon, although I suspect only the latter is used, along with a subtle herbaceous aroma.

(And yes, a quick post-tasting visit to the distillery website confirms that super fresh lemon peel is among the botanicals, sliced from lemons on the day of distillation.)

Sampled at room temperature, the front palate presents mostly sweet juniper, again evoking that oddball cotton candy analogy, along with lemon zest and a hint of rosewater. Further along, greater complexity takes hold with grassy, herbal notes, a hint of allspice and cinnamon – from grains of paradise, according to the ingredients list on the label – and an ever-so-slight lemon peel bitterness. The finish dries out nicely, but remains just a touch sweet and fruity, with a lightly peppery character and lingering juniper.

Served cold, as most would a gin, the juniper grows a bit more dominant, particularly on the nose, bit remains steadfastly unaggressive. Similarly, the body remains round and full, perhaps even more so than when it is warmer, and the fruity, herbal, and spicy component blend into a frankly wonderful whole.

The distillery rep who gave me this bottle described the gin as ‘built for Martinis,’ and that is exactly how I feel about it. Compared to a 4:1 Martini made with a solid and dependable, multinational brand of London dry style gin, the Boatyard version proved to be rounder, smoother, no less junipery but devoid of any edges, and clearly the superior drink. In plain terms, the sort of martini that invites another. 

93 ($52)