Three from Jamaica’s Appleton Estate

Appleton Estate is certainly not the only distillery in Jamaica, but it is far and away the most famous and most prolific. And unlike some industry heavyweights I could name, it is also very, very good.

It has been many years since I last visited the distillery, and a visitor’s centre, bar and lounge, and, of course, a gift shop have been added since. But even for its prominence and these new attractions, I doubt very much that it has lost any of its rustic charm.

The heart of the Appleton line is the Signature, formerly known as Appleton V/X, which itself is a lovely, ester-forward blend of pot- and column-distilled rums. At its price point of $28 to $34 a 750 ml bottle, depending upon where in Canada you make your purchase, it represents pretty damn good value in Caribbean rum.

Yet as with most big brands these days, the no age declaration flagship is just the beginning of the Appleton line, and I am grateful to have had the opportunity to sample a few others recently, all of which, I’m very pleased to say, echo the Signature’s impressive value-for-the-money proposition. Compared to equivalently aged whiskies of virtually any national origin, the age to price ratio of each is astoundingly good.

Appleton Estate 8 Reserve (43%)

This rum shows a richness in its amber-gold hue that speaks to the concentration caused by Caribbean aging, which intensifies spirits in a manner that cannot be replicated in colder climates. The aroma is equally full and concentrated, with bold notes of baked fruit and dried and lightly candied orange peel, accented by aromas of cinnamon and nutmeg, cooked vanilla, and a touch of charred wood. The flavour is boldly Appleton, with sweet cooked sugar up front yielding quickly to a mix of orange, fresh vanilla, gingerbread, and slightly earthy honey. The finish has a mix of brown spice and ginger, with some lingering fruity sweetness.

At its price point, this offers a lot of flavour for the money. Makes a great rum and ginger beer, but is equally enjoyable all on its own.

90 ($40 - $44) 

Appleton Estate 8 Double Cask (43%)

The second of the “double” casks is a single malt whisky barrel, which gives the 8 year old rum a lighter, fresher, more delicate nose than its single cask sibling. The orange on the nose is lighter and more fresh orange oil than concentrated peel, while unmistakable whisky notes moderate the spice and lend a more delicate, floral-forward character to the aroma. The body is likewise lighter and fresher than is the regular 8 year declaration. There is an equal, but softer sweetness on the palate entry, with less molasses and more of a honey character, with vanilla arising on the mid-palate, complementing a fresh mandarin orange quality, leading to a slightly peppery finish.

Overall, this is a quite different experience than is the 8 year old, with a more refined character and faintly whisky-ish flavour. Certainly up to being mixed, but fully enjoyable as a sipper all on its own.

90 ($54 - $56; limited edition)

Appleton Estate 15 Years Old Black River Casks (43%)

A blend of column and pot distilled rums aged at least 15 years in casks named for the Jamaican distillery’s water source, this offers complex notes of toasted almond and spice on the nose, with Appleton’s signature orange notes more in the background than is typical of one of their rums. There is a softness and subtle complexity to the aroma of this spirit, with flowery vanilla and soft oak joining the almond, fruit, and spice. On the palate, you’ll find Appleton’s characteristically fruity flavour with an emphasis on mandarin orange peel and cooked peach alongside vanilla and candied nuts, a lovely oak character, gentle brown spice with cinnamon most prominent, an soft mocha notes towards the finish.

Don’t you dare mix this with anything other than, perhaps, a single ice cube. (Okay, go ahead and drink it as you wish, but it really doesn’t require any enhancement whatsoever.) So far as Jamaican rums go, this is a masterclass in complexity, easily the equal of whiskies and whiskeys several times its price. A rum for rum aficionados.

94 ($83 - $89)